Grüner Veltliner

What is Grüner Veltliner?

Grüner Veltliner (GV) is Austria's most planted and most important grape variety. It accounts for about a third of all Austrian wine production and spans a huge quality range, from everyday carafes in Viennese Heurigen (wine taverns) to some of Europe's most sought-after and long-lived whites.

What does it taste like?

The hallmark of Grüner Veltliner is a distinctive white pepper note, subtle in lighter versions, pronounced in more serious ones. Beyond that: citrus zest, green herbs, stone fruit, and a crisp mineral finish. The top examples from the Wachau are full-bodied and age beautifully, developing a rich, creamy complexity over 10-20 years.

Key flavours: white pepper, lemon zest, grapefruit, stone fruit, fresh herbs, mineral

The Wachau: Austria's greatest wine region

The Wachau is a steep, dramatic gorge along the Danube west of Vienna, with granite and gneiss soils that give the wines their mineral precision. Wachau wines use their own quality classification:

• Steinfeder: light, delicate, under 11.5% alcohol
• Federspiel: medium-bodied, 11.5-12.5%
• Smaragd: the top level, named after the emerald lizard (Smaragdeidechse) that sunbathes on the terraces; rich, full-bodied, age-worthy

Producers to know: Prager, F.X. Pichler, Knoll, Rudi Pichler, Domäne Wachau.

Kamptal and Kremstal

Just east of the Wachau, the Kamptal and Kremstal produce excellent Grüner at slightly lower prices. Loess and loam soils here give wines with more roundness and fruit than the granite-driven Wachau style.

Food pairing

Grüner Veltliner is one of the most food-friendly whites in the world. The white pepper note and high acidity make it work where other whites fail:

• Asparagus (the classic, white asparagus with Hollandaise)
• Wiener Schnitzel
• Vegetable-forward dishes
• Freshwater fish
• Japanese cuisine
• The grape's savoury character handles vinegar-dressed salads better than most whites