What is Viognier?
Viognier is a full-bodied white grape from the northern Rhône valley in France. It was nearly extinct as recently as the 1960s, fewer than 15 hectares remained in production worldwide. Today it is planted across the globe, from California to Australia to Argentina, though its spiritual home remains the steep granite slopes of Condrieu and Château-Grillet.
What does it taste like?
Viognier is one of the most immediately recognisable white grapes. The aromatics are flamboyant: white peach, apricot, jasmine blossom, and sometimes a faint violet note. The palate is full and round, naturally low in acidity, with a slightly oily or glycerol texture. It is made to drink young; the aromatics fade with age rather than developing new complexity.
Key flavours: white peach, apricot, jasmine, orange blossom, ginger, mango
Condrieu: the benchmark
Condrieu is a tiny appellation on the steep granite banks of the Rhône south of Lyon. The vines cling to terraced slopes at extreme angles, harvested by hand. Great Condrieu from producers like Yves Cuilleron, André Perret, or Georges Vernay is one of the most distinctive white wines in the world, not cheap, but unforgettable.
Côte-Rôtie: the unusual co-fermentation
In Côte-Rôtie, Syrah is sometimes co-fermented with up to 20% Viognier. The aromatic white grape adds floral lift and stabilises the colour of the red wine. The resulting Syrah is more perfumed and approachable than a pure Syrah from the same appellation.
Food pairing
Viognier's low acidity and aromatic richness suit foods with some sweetness or spice: lobster bisque, chicken with apricot and tarragon, Moroccan tagine, Thai green curry, spiced pork. Avoid pairing with delicate, lean dishes where the wine's richness overwhelms.
